Row 11 of the Yoke should be as follows: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each st across to last st, 2 dc in last st; turn. 180 sts.

For Left Front:

Row 1: With larger hook, ch 1, skip first dc, 2 sc in next dc, (skip next dc, 2 sc in next dc) 10 (10, 12, 12) times more, sc again in last st (inc made); turn. 23 (23, 27, 27) sts. (You should wind up with 3 scs in that last st.)

Row 2: "Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc (inc made), 2 sc in next sc, (skip next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 10 (10, 12, 12) times; turn. 24 (24, 28, 28) sts."

For Left Sleeve:

Row 2: "Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st dc (inc made), 2 sc in next sc, (skip next sc, 2 sc in next dc) 17 (17, 19, 19) times, 2 sc in last sc; turn. 38 (38, 42, 42) sts."

For Back:

Row 2: "Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st dc (inc made), 2 sc in next sc, (skip next sc, 2 sc in next dc) 22 (22, 26, 26) times, 2 sc in last sc; turn. 48 (48, 56, 56) sts."

Millie Cardigan Errata — British version

If you are making the S or M, you should begin the "For left front" section immediately after Row 9; the way the section "subtitles" are laid out in the design, it looks a bit confusing, as if you divide the yoke by continuing on with Row 10-11. Those lines, "Divide yoke for sizes S and M" and "Divide yoke for sizes L and XL" should really just be standing alone, and "DIVIDE YOKE" should really come as a title directly above "For left front. . . ."

That said, the divisions should work out alright for the S or M size, but for the L and XL I see that the count is 2 stitches short. My sincere apologies!

Row 11 of the Yoke should be as follows: Ch 3, tr in same st, tr in each st across to last st, 2 tr in last st; turn. 180 sts.

For Left Front:

Row 1: With larger hook, ch 1, skip first tr, 2 dc in next tr, (skip next tr, 2 dc in next tr) 10 (10, 12, 12) times more, dc again in last st (inc made); turn. 23 (23, 27, 27) sts. (You should wind up with 3 dcs in that last st.)

Row 2: "Ch 1, 2 dc in 1st dc (inc made), 2 dc in next dc, (skip next dc, 2 dc in next dc) 10 (10, 12, 12) times; turn. 24 (24, 28, 28) sts."

For Left Sleeve:

Row 2: "Ch 1, 2 dc in 1st tr (inc made), 2 dc in next dc, (skip next dc, 2 dc in next tr) 17 (17, 19, 19) times, 2 dc in last dc; turn. 38 (38, 42, 42) sts."

For Back:

Row 2: "Ch 1, 2 dc in 1st tr (inc made), 2 dc in next dc, (skip next dc, 2 dc in next tr) 22 (22, 26, 26) times, 2 dc in last dc; turn. 48 (48, 56, 56) sts."



Nico shift dress

7th round: 1 dc into 1st dc on next petal * 4 ch, 1 dc into 3rd ch from hook (picot made), twice, 1 ch, 1 dc into centre tr of same petal (picot lp made), ** 4 ch, 1 dc into 3rd ch from hook; repeat from **once, 1 ch, 1 dc into 1st dc on next petal; repeat from * omitting last dc and ending sl st into 1st dc.

Also; the amount of yarn required should be between 10 - 12 balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran



Tea cosy

Yarn: Blue Sky Alpaca, Sport weight - 1 skein each colour
Colour: M.S. 514 + 008 for contrast
Crochet Hook size: 4.5mm
Measurements: To fit average pot

With contrast shade 008, make 32 ch.
Next row: 1 dc. in 2nd ch. From hook, 1 dc in each following ch: 31sts. Change to M.S. (514)
1st row: wrong side, in M.S., 3 ch., *miss 3 sts., 3 tr in next st., (gr. Made); rep. from * to last 3 sts., miss 2 sts., 1 tr in last st.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in first st., 2 tr in next free st. of 2 rows below (working round sts. of previous row), * 1 dc in centre of gr. of 3 tr., 3tr in centre of 3 free sts., of 2 rows below; rep. from * ending 1 dc in centre tr of last gr., 2 tr in centre of 3 free sts., 1 dc in top of 3 ch.
3rd row: as 1st row 4th row: as 2nd row.
Repeat these 4 rows twice more, then 1st row again.

Change to contrast shade 008
Next row: 1 ch., 1 dc., in first st., 2 tr in next free st. as before, * 1 dc in centre tr of next gr., 2 tr in centre free st., rep. from * to end, 1 dc. in top of 3 ch.
Next row: 3 ch., * miss 1 st., dec. 1; rep. from * ending 1 tr in last st.
Next row: 3 ch., * dec. 1; rep. from * ending 1 tr in top of 3 ch.
Fasten off.
Make another piece the same.

To make up: Join seams, leaving openings for spout and handle